Heritage Hijacked: When Luxury Labels Overlook Our Origins, India Should Walk Away

 Step into any global luxury store today—from Paris to Las Vegas to Hawaii—and you are likely to find a quiet but unmistakable presence shaping its future: the discerning Indian consumer. No longer on the periphery, Indians are now at the heart of the luxury equation, driving demand not just with spending power, but with a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, heritage, and prestige. India’s influence in the luxury market is more visible than ever—whether it’s at the world’s only open-air designer shopping mall in Hawaii or the ultra-fine dining experience at Louis Vuitton’s Gaggan in Bangkok. The era of the Indian window shopper is a thing of the past.

 

In 2023, India’s domestic luxury market stood at roughly $17 billion, with projections to triple by 2030. Yet, when international brands borrow from India’s cultural treasure troves without acknowledging their source, the admiration of Indian buyers can turn to indignation—and even boycott.

 

Prada’s cultural appropriation

 

A few days ago, luxury fashion house Prada found itself in hot water after unveiling its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection in Milan. Among the showcased items was a pair of “leather sandals" that bore an unmistakable resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals—traditional handcrafted footwear deeply rooted in Maharashtra’s cultural and artisanal heritage.

 

However, the show notes made no mention of their Indian origin. The omission sparked immediate backlash across India’s fashion community, with artisans and cultural advocates accusing Prada of cultural appropriation and possible violation of geographical indication (GI) rights.

 

In response, Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), wrote to Prada demanding public acknowledgement and fair engagement with the artisan communities who have preserved this design over centuries. “Kolhapuri chappals represent centuries-old craftsmanship rooted in the cultural fabric of Maharashtra… These products are not only symbolic of regional identity, but they also support the livelihoods of thousands of artisans and families in the Kolhapur region and surrounding districts," Gandhi stated, urging the brand to explore collaboration or compensation.

 

Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, Lorenzo Bertelli, replied, acknowledging that the footwear was indeed inspired by “traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage". He added that the designs were still in early stages and had not been confirmed for production. Bertelli expressed a willingness to engage further with Indian artisans and emphasised Prada’s commitment to “responsible design practices" and “meaningful cultural exchange".

 

Despite this statement, many in India viewed the response as too little, too late—more of a PR gesture than a sincere attempt to credit or uplift the communities involved. Meanwhile, BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation of Kolhapuri artisans to Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis, seeking state-level intervention to protect both their livelihood and India’s cultural patrimony.

 

The episode has reignited long-standing concerns about global luxury brands profiting from traditional designs without acknowledgement, credit, or ethical reciprocity.

 

Buying power meets cultural consciousness

 

Luxury spending is no longer a fringe indulgence—Indians are increasingly major players. Forecasts anticipate consumer spending on luxury goods to climb to $32 billion by 2030, with India’s affluent base ballooning to hundreds of millions of consumers.

 

At the same time, Indian-origin brands are staking strong global claims. Designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee have collaborated with Christian Louboutin, H&M, and Estee Lauder—garnering acclaim across New York, London, Dubai, and beyond. Indian design houses like Falguni Shane Peacock have established a presence in international couture and bridal markets. The broader Indian apparel sector is experiencing robust growth, with a projected compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10-12 per cent.

 

Yet this growing recognition of Indian brands makes acts of appropriation all the more jarring. When Western luxury houses strip cultural artifacts from their context, they erase labour, lineage, and livelihood, while Indians fund their own invisibility. This stand-alone rebranding without due credit undermines artisan identities and robs local economies of recognition and potential revenue.

 

Contrast that with the collaborative model embraced by Indian designers like Sabyasachi, who publicly credits the weavers of Murshidabad, Kotpad, and Andhra Pradesh, reinvesting his saree initiative into those communities. His collaboration with Louboutin in 2015 reinvigorated vintage techniques like acid-dyed zardozi, offering not just aesthetic luxury but artisan dignity. Similarly, Rahul Mishra, the first Indian designer to showcase at Paris Haute Couture Week, has consistently spotlighted the craftsmanship of Indian karigars, integrating their stories into the global fashion narrative and ensuring they share the success of his collections.

 

The difference lies in reciprocity, narrative, and agency, not mere visual reference.

 

What happens if India says no?

 

Luxury brands need India more than ever; it’s high time they acknowledged it. With Chinese consumption sagging and Western markets plateauing, India represents the next frontier. But unless brands reform their cultural conduct, they risk alienating a growing, confident, socially conscious consumer class. For India, opting out is not about trench warfare. It’s about negotiation: ethical purchase, cultural credit, and artisan upliftment.

 

An Indian consumer boycott would not come from knee-jerk nationalism. Instead, it would stem from a refined expectation—Indians will pay if our money honours more than a logo. Prada may survive a one-off backlash. But recycled imagery without investment, storytelling, or profit-sharing could be poor business in the long-term luxury market.

 

This debate isn’t binary. Cultivating global appeal does not require cultural exclusion. Indian brands have already shown how it’s done. Iconic Indian labels like Sabyasachi, Rahul Mishra, Anita Dongre, Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Kamra, Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, and Manish Malhotra are catalysing luxury narratives from India, not just about India. They blend tradition with innovation, ethics with exclusivity, and, most critically, give artisans both credit and livelihood.

 

Globally, India holds considerable cultural capital. But true sophistication lies in storytelling that credits lineage, ensures fair pay, and builds sustainable design ecosystems. Whether it’s paisley embroidery, hand-block prints, or chappal leatherwork, the label on the sandal begins with a social contract, not a marketing spin.

 

India’s love for luxury is real—but so is its heritage and pride. If brands like Prada wish to continue their relationship with India, they must weave cultural sensitivity into their value chains, not just their designs. Because today’s discerning consumer wants more than allure. They demand authenticity.

 

By choosing consciously, Indians can affirm that luxury isn’t just about opulence—it’s about respect. Own it, brand it, share it. Then, and only then, can luxury have global appeal with Indian integrity.

This article was published in https://www.news18.com/opinion/opinion-heritage-hijacked-when-luxury-labels-overlook-our-origins-india-should-walk-away-9437137.html