Balsamand - a tuft of lush green in desert land
July 27,
2012, Hotel Balsamand Lake Palace, Jodhpur: Here in Jodhpur, I am
staying at this property which is managed by the WelcomeHeritage
group. It is a heritage hotel chain of the ITC Group.
The
artificial lake Balsamand, from which this property gets its
name, was engineered in the 12th Century to serve as a reservoir. The
exquisite red sand-stone palace came up later and was built by
Maharaja Jaswant Singh I of Jodhpur in the 17th Century.
This palace
used to be the summer retreat of the Maharajas of Jodhpur and other
royal families of Rajasthan. Later, the royal families started a
tradition of celebrating the first rains in Balsamand; a
custom that has led to the palace being referred to as the Monsoon
Palace. After an ambitious restoration and modernization program
Balsamand Lake Palace became a world class Heritage Hotel with
modern amenities.
When I was
in Jodhpur the last time about nine years ago I had stayed in this
property. I clearly remember it was Room No 1. This time it is Room
No 6 for me which is also called the Lake View Suite.
This heritage hotel has only 10 rooms in the Palace site of
this property. The property is spread across 3 acres of land and has
10 Palace Rooms and another 26 Garden Rooms in
the garden area known as the Balsamand Garden. In all,
the property is spread over nearly 60 acres of lush green paradise
I am the
only guest in this property and all the other rooms are vacant for
the last two days. I think the hot weather of Rajasthan has something
to do with it.
The history
of this property dates back to 1159 AD when Raja Raja Bal Rao Parihar
created the artificial lake to collect monsoon water from the
surrounding hills. Centuries later in 1619 the beauty of the site
inspired Raja Sur Singh to create a royal pleasure garden. The
current palace was constructed in the 19th
Century by Maharaja Takhat Singh.
Set amid
sandstone hills overlooking the lake, it has an idyllic approach
through splendid gardens, orchards and tree-lined avenues. As it has
for many centuries, the Balsamand Lake Palace
continues to serve as the favorite venue for parties and special
celebrations of the Jodhpur Royal Family and their guests.
The
Balsamand area is famed for its old majestic and luscious
fruit bearing trees and orchards. Today, the entire property, as a
Heritage Hotel, has been opened up to the guests and is no
longer the exclusive domain of the Royals. Guests at the hotel have a
great time wandering through beautifully landscaped gardens,
sprawling orchards of lime and promegranates and elegant waterways
and even an aqueduct. There is also a lovely promenade on the lake.
The
terraced marbled Peacock Fountain at the top of the
central avenue is the focal point. The fountain is said to be over a
thousand years old, and, when in use, creates a magical illusion. The
peacocks themselves seem to respond to the magic, as they often
gather here to dance.
There are
hundreds of things to bewilder you in Balsamand, including old
trees, flowering plants, shrubs, sandstone pergolas, stables with
local Marwar ponies, an amazing variety of resident and
migratory birds, squirrels, huge grey langurs and peacocks. A Shiva
temple, where local devotees throng, and a step well, at least 400
years old, adds to the mystique of this enchanting place.
A local
person by the name of Manohar, who worked in the property, told me
there is a popular belief that the presence of the holy Shiva temple
in this huge property has kept snakes and animals away from the hotel
since its inception 1996.
This
property also has one private area owned by Maharaj Gaj Singh which
houses his horse breeding farm. His personal horse Neelkamal
is one of the best horses of Marwar breed stationed there.
The
property also has opened one Garden Restaurant with a
bar is in the Palki. This Palki was made famous by
Akbar Khan's classic film Taj Mahal. Khan had stayed
here for about three-and-half years to shoot his film. After the
shooting the Palki, used in the film, was converted into the
bar at the Garden Restaurant.
Though the
Palace Rooms are exquisitely beautiful and full of
history, it is advisable not to stay there during summers as even the
huge air conditioners are not able to cope up with the hot weather.
Another flip side is that the internet connectivity is pathetic. But all
these are made up for by the best foods that I have had.
But you can
try out the identical Garden Rooms. These
rooms, which were earlier the stables for the horses, are now well furnished with modern amenities for comfort. There is also a small Mahal on the
right atop the cliff overlooking the lake. I was told that next year
this would be converted into a `honeymoon suite'.
ess bee
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